Perfumes are art, and the best ones can take you back in time, to another place, or perfectly capture an emotion. Scents have the power to transform one's mood, stimulate the senses, and even inspire a surge of confidence or sensuality. We use our highly developed sense of smell to take in information about the world and, often, to take pleasure in it; this is where contemporary perfumery comes in. The attractive containers they come in are also a nice touch when giving one as a present.
Perfume's origins date back to the 17th century, when it was popular in France. Chemical progress, including the creation of synthetic molecules, led to a heightened complexity in fragrances, with modern fragrances combining notes in ways that their monofloral ancestors could never have imagined. In the 1920s, Chanel was among the first to incorporate aldehydes into its perfume formulas, solidifying the brand's position as an industry leader. Since then, the fragrance industry has expanded to include cutting-edge scientific research alongside traditional oil blends, solidifying the notion that selecting a perfume is more about expressing one's own unique personality than pandering to the whims of others. Perfumes that are worth their salt have layers of complexity that reflect the individual wearing them: top notes that are immediately noticeable, heart notes that add depth, and base notes that provide a lasting base.
These tried-and-tested suggestions attest to the truth that the most enduring fragrances are those with fascinating backstories.
Louıs Vuitton Coeur Battant
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Model Imaan Hammam says, "Fragrance is an integral part of my daily routine," and that she currently uses Divine Moon's honey and Lady of the Night flower notes to calm herself down before bed and in the morning. Electric Sky, a vivacious blend of cactus flower, lavender, and palo santo, is a more energising alternative in the collection. She comments, "It brings back memories of when I uprooted my life and moved to New York to pursue my career." "Just like when I put on Electric Sky, this chance has given me a sense of liberation," she said.
Karina Sharif, whose paper sculptures now include lights, words, and figures, has a soft spot for perfume oil. I like that they last longer, and it's great that they provide extra TLC for my skin, she says. The blown-glass container that holds Earthly serves as a constant reminder for her to slow down, reconnect, and take it easy. Grassy, tangled-vine, and violet undertones capture the beauty of nature.
Jacqueline Rabôt, a sustainable fashion designer adored by LA's art community, is often spotted stealing her husband's scent. Androgynous notes like sandalwood, clove, and cardamom are my favourites, she says. "The rough nuances take on an easygoing air, making for a pleasant everyday scent." In the words of Rabôt, Marrakech Intense is an outdoor invitation to give in to one's baser instincts.
Cashmere Kush by Boy Smells is a favourite of Charli Howard, a model and the creator of the vegan skin care line Squish Beauty. She describes the woody floral fragrance with its signature ambery base as "the perfect balance of a feminine and masculine scent." When it comes to perfume, I have a strong preference for ambroxan. Howard thinks that perfume should be used on a regular basis rather than saved for special occasions. I adore the way it rests on my skin, she gushes.
Several years ago, while Arianna Margulis was dressing the windows for Ralph Lauren, she caught a whiff of this scent and was instantly hooked. Margulis, who is now a cartoonist, says, "It was this spicy, sweet [blend] that made me crush." The scent, written by Maurice Roucel for Frédéric Malle, has musk, patchouli, and sandalwood undertones and is a favourite of sensualists. Because it's so unique, she says, she's worn it for years — and even splurged on the smaller travel size on occasion. I'll walk a few blocks back to the house if I forget to put it on first.
Artist Cindy Shaoul says, "I bought this amazing fragrance when I was in France on my travels after college." To paraphrase, "Every time I put it on, I'm taken back to the excitement of first setting foot on a new continent." The adaptability and harmony of the fragrance, which includes citrus and patchouli, are what have kept it in high rotation. (A body of work by Shaoul titled "Dripping in Chanel" hints at a more pervasive impact.) When I put on Chance I immediately feel at ease, liberated, and content.
Janus Auermann, a former chef who is now the founder of the clean beauty company AKT Therapy and who is developing a sunscreen serum for her company's line of handmade skin care products, is allergic to most fragrances but has discovered a true treasure in Maison Louis Marie's No.04 Bois de Balincourt. She explains that she was drawn to the combination of amber, cinnamon, and earthy vetiver because she was looking for a signature scent that was both seductive and not overpowering for everyday use. In the colder months, she makes a hand and neck balm out of the fragrance mixed with a salve. When the temperature starts to rise, she just spritzes her wrists and earlobes, but before going out at night, she sprays her entire body, including her hair.
Kate Hundley, a New York–based designer whose eponymous label is known for fusing Victorian elements with references to modern icons like Madonna and Dolly Parton, has been "recently obsessed with Young Rose—a romantic blend of Damascus rose, iris, and Sichuan pepper, layered on a musk and ambergris base," she says. The overall impression is one of "femininity with a subversive edge." A night out or a day at the office with Hundley's creative mind isn't complete without the Byredo scent. It's a rare occasion when I'll wear a perfume, but the pepper really amps up the complexity and freshness of the scent, making it one I can't resist.
Megan Kothari of Aaryah, a women-led company with a reputation for creating thoughtfully crafted bridal collections, has been a regular wearer of Oud Ispahan for some time. She describes it as "deep but with a softness to it." In spite of my predilection for woodsy fragrances, I find that the subtle rose, patchouli, and saffron top notes in this perfume beautifully complement the more robust oud base. Kohari wears it on her wrist and neck on a daily basis, just like she does when she leaves the house, in part because it makes her feel prepared and in part because of the way the notes change as the days go by. "It's the perfect scent to elevate your confidence and add a little luxury to every day," she gushes.
To this day, Lesley Thorton, creator of the minimalist, ethically minded skin care brand Klur, cannot commit to a single perfume. Diptyque's L'Ombre Dans L'Eau caught her attention because of her affinity for the brand's candles, and now she uses it as an evening fragrance to mist onto her collarbones, wrists, and hair. She describes how the perfume seems to deviate from traditional perfume construction, saying, "The scent is floral, herbaceous, and feminine." Instead of the usual top, middle, and bottom notes, "it's more of a constellation of notes." She may not be a perfume fanatic, but "every time I wear it I get a handful of compliments," as Thorton puts it.
The Australian half of the design duo behind the women's line Aje, Edwina Forest, has a favourite fragrance. According to her, "Le Labo's intimate in-store experience and personalization is second to none" when it comes to the perfume boutique that is famous for blending its creations by hand. "it's gentle, subtle, and sensual, with a freshness perfect for the summer," Forest says of Musc 25, an ode to Los Angeles that is part of the brand's City Exclusive range If you can't make it to a Le Labo boutique, their 17-piece discovery set is a great alternative.